Loop of Waiahole Middle (aka Old Kipapa Windward) to Waiahole Uka (Current Kipapa Windward?)
Around the turn of the century (I love saying that) a group of hardcore HTMCers scouted a prominent windward ridge that divides Waiahole Valley into north and south. They named this ridge “Waiahole Middle” and/or “Kipapa Windward.” Aside from two notches roughly mid way up, their reports indicate a ridge that was otherwise gradual and seemingly “doable.” They managed to get past the lower notch, but stopped at the imposing second notch when common sense prevailed. They were later successful in scaling its neigbor to the north, which is now an advanced Club hike named “Waiahole Uka” (or occassionally “Kipapa Windward.”)
Having less common sense than Dayle and Patrick and crew, Chase and August and I decided to check out the “original” ridge – the one with the notches – to see if we would have better luck. A detour including pie and koi fish (don’t ask) meant that we would have safe parking in the valley, but also a late start. At 9:40am we began into the valley, first on the jeep road, but quickly bushwhacking off to a ridge on our left. This spur would eventually bring us up to the desired main ridgeline. We rotated front man to conserve energy through tall uluhe. (See August’s photo below.)
Following some steady plowing, a final steep scramble through uluhe brought us to the ridgeline. We would fight our way a bit further until intersecting the contour trail of the Waiahole Ditch Trail. After stepping across this flat grade, we continued up the main ridge with more open conditions. We assume this is where other groups had jumped on this ridge. But after a while the way choked up a bit and we were hacking on the fly again. We affixed extension cord (old school style!) on two short descents. Helpful, but not really needed. Did eliminate some pack weight, though.
The first notch was reached, and we found it has a sizable rock pinnacle jutting out of it. Chase was on lead at this point and got high up before running out of safe holds. We agreed he should descend and we would look for a contour. On his way down the tricky pinnacle, a number of chunks dislodged and gave me a scare as they plummetted by! With Chase back down, we contoured to the left on a steep slope but with safety of tree-handholds. We climbed steeply out of this notch, finding old ropes buried in the vegetation. Looking back, we realized we made the wise decision to contour the pinnacle as it was even worse on the mauka end. Very tall, very steep, and very bare. Would have been dangerous and unnecessary. (No comments, please.)
Not long after the first notch, we hit the second. August snapped a pic just before the drop.
Below is a pic of our planned descent route, Waiahole Uka, across the valley.
With all of us safely past the tough spot, we were motivated to summit. But that was going to take longer than expected. Travel past the notch seems nil, and the growth was thick. We traded out on front man as we battled uluhe, i’e i’e and other tangled mess. Worst were the stunted, mossy trees that had to be climbed over, tunneled under, or broken through. Solid ground was a rarity. But the grade was always gentle. In fact, when the clouds enveloped us and visibilty dropped, the ridge just seemed to continue forever with no sign of the summit.
But at 4:30pm the ridge finally topped out and we intersected a faint swath that indicated we hit the Koolau summit. The winds were whipping and the clouds kept it cold so we hunkered down at that spot to have a rest/meal break. We tied a ribbon to mark the junction. And soon we were on our way to Kipapa with “KST Chase” leading the tour. We moved swiftly as 1) it was late, 2) it was cold, and 3) there were no views to distract us. We paused briefly at the Kipapa summit to take a pic of the clouds.
Chase showed us a way around the landslide near the Kipapa summit…we paused to observe the cabin remains amongst the Sugi Pines… and by 5:30pm we were on our way down Waiahole Uka, which was a familiar route to us all.
With no views and no time to wait for them, we descended fairly quickly. We hit the bottom of the uluhe swath and the junction with the “Kuolani-Waianu” contour trail at 6:30pm. Below the clouds, we had been able to see our ascent ridge while crashing down through the uluhe. In the photo below, the two notches are visible. The upper (trickier) one is easy to make out with the cloud in the background. Somehow it looks easier from far away…
Heading left (north?) on the contour trail, we traveled in and out of several gulleys until crossing the dry stream by the intake. Then it was down the wide jeep road to our exit point, which we hit around 7:30-7:40 I think. No headlamps were needed, and conversation entertained us on the brisk walk. Good loop with enjoyable and capable company.
I should also mention that while on the ridge past the upper notch we had views towards Manana and the Waiawa Gap – until higher up and clouds rolled in. At the low point in the Koolau summit, we could make out a series of straight lines zig-zagging down the pali. I remembered reading about a switchback trail in Waiahole Valley in Stuart’s new book. We believe that is what we saw. This would be above the giant water tunnel that goes through the mountain to the leeward side. The upper third was fairly distinct from a distance, but the lower parts were anyone’s guess. Would be cool to recreate THAT route!
Author: Pete Clines <peteclines@YAHOO.COM>
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