Koolau Summit Traverse -- Ryan Moss
Author: Ryan Moss" <m.l.d.video@gmail.com>
Ryan Moss
As for my journey... I would first would like to thank anyone whoever cleared a trail, tied a ribbon as a trail marker, pioneered those saddles and just wasn't afraid to go out and explore. I owe a huge thanks to first off my family for always being there to support me throughout this journey. Kris and Martina Harms for always making me feel at home and giving me a place to stay every time I flew in to attempt this journey. Not only taking me in, but helping me through the healing process as I had to lick my wounds a few times. Windy Purdue for dropping me off at the trail head in Pupukea on December 27th (2013) at 7am and being there to pick me up at 6pm on January 1st 2014. The same goes for Kris and Martina who greeted me with a champagne shower on that final day. I need to also thank Fancis Joy, Marcus Greigo, Laredo, Jeremy Kreis, Thomas Engle, and Katie Ersbak for helping me out with trail knowledge, checking up on me, making sure I was always making rational decisions and just sending messages to brighten my days. Thank you to Elizabeth Barney for helping me face some inner demons and appreciate being in the moment along those final 5 and a half days.
I need to thank all my friends back home especially Eric Mehlberg, Ryan Marcus, Rob and Chelsae Donegan, AJ Purdy, Ricky, Bek, Alese, Kathleen, Ugis, Mom and Pop Lesser. I would like to also thank many of the people who I never have met who supported me through social media. I would also like to thank Chase Norton for having documented and opening the possibility of this amazing journey to the rest of the dreamers like myself. To the HTMC members and all the people who take the time to document, maintain, promote in a positive light and preserve these special places, thank you.
I believe that is everyone I wanted to thank. If I forgot to mention you, I am truly sorry and I do reach out with the warmest possible thank you I can give from the bottom of my heart.
As for the journey itself. It can best be described as a mental chess match the entire way. I have learned from spending now roughly a month in total on the Koolau summits that you can always count on the weather being unpredictable, unforgiving, and not really caring what you want it to be like. Even when you think you have the perfect conditions for the traverse some wrench will be thrown into the mix and your plan will be taken for a spin. Knowing this taught me how to learn to control the aspects and challenges that are within my control and let everything play out the way it should or was meant to.
If you want a cliff note version of the summit here it is:
Pupukea Boy Scout Camp to Koloa Cabin: 11.38 Miles.
First part is pavement, then really really muddy and overgrown. Be prepared to have a warm change of clothes and dry pair of sock by the end of the day to help lift your moral. All in all though it's a really enjoyable hike and goes by a lot faster than you think. The views from the helipads, the cabin itself and certain parts of the traverse are amazing. I chose to carry in 6L of water so that I wouldn't have to filter from any streams. I drank 3L that first day and saved the remaining 3L for the next day's trek to Poamoho.
Koloa Cabin to Poamoho: around 7.8 Miles.
Once again expect wet conditions more often than not and it to be extremely muddy. The trail has some holes in it on your way from Koloa to Castle as well as a landslide if I remember correctly. All in all I remember this day passing by quickly as well. I had time to enjoy the views that overlooked Kahana Bay. I always enjoy Poamoho for many reasons, but mostly because of the incredible view you can get from watching the sunset at the helipad.
Poamoho to Waimano: 15 to 16 miles
This day started off as what I thought was going to be where I was going to quit. I think the only reason I didn't was because I wasn't going to let myself not make it at least to Manana. It poured that night and the clouds were swirling on the summit. I remember taking my time getting out of bed because I didn't want to leave the comfort and warmth of my sleeping bag. I finally got out of the cabin around 730am I want to say. I was glad I pushed on because as I started out towards Waikane I was greeted with the most amazing sunrise I have ever witnessed up there. This alone motivated me and gave me my first sense of hope that this would be the journey that I finally reach the finish line. I took several moments to embrace the warmth of the sun and the change of scenery. The previous two days had been cold, windy and wet. This was by far one of the defining moments of my journey through the Koolaus, and the main reason why I will always find myself returning to Poamoho.
The rest of the day after you reach Kipapa is filled finally with ridge walking. You leave behind all the contour trails and embark on a 2-4 ft wide ridge for the rest of the journey. (Those numbers of course are a rough estimate.) My endurance and will power is always tested on these sections between Kipapa and Waimano. Once again the moment you start to really feel the burn and think about how much pain you are in, you have reached a beautiful campsite and get to enjoy the sunset on the summit.
I remember listening to music this day as I watched the sun fade below the horizon line. It's a mind trip to actually see civilization below you as you are camping thousands of feet above.
Waimano to South Haiku: 11.2 miles
Once again up and downs and I was forced to move rapidly as the weather started to shift from bad to worse. I fell asleep to clear summit skies with not rain around 10pm the night before and woke up to a light rain and low clouds. This of course turned into heavier rain and windy conditions. This is everything I feared heading into the saddle sections. I remember reaching the Aiea Powerlines stopping to rest. It was roughly 10:30am. It was raining and I knew there was a cold front on the horizon with unstable winds and weather. Today would be the day that was ultimately the defining moment in the trip at least for me anyway. I vividly remember closing my eyes, visualizing the clouds lifting and the rain stopping as I was reaching the saddle. I sat there in silence and in peace for several moments visualizing all of this and watching myself summit South Haiku. I opened my eyes and as I did a serene tranquility shot through my body. I was finally at peace with myself and was going to accept the out come of this day whichever way it played out. I reached north Haiku about 11:45am and the summit was still covered in clouds and a light rain. I yelled out clear, common clear up for me. I walked with a purpose, slightly optimistic, frustrated, and entirely hopeful that my vision would play out.
As I reached the midway point of the Moanalua Saddle the rain had stopped and the cloud were parting. I could now see the summit of South Haiku clearly. I didn't think much of it at the time. It was roughly 2pm as I had taken my time to make sure I didn't make any mistakes descending the first half of the saddle. I started to make my way up to the summit of South Haiku and reached the stairs that mark you're out of harms way around 3:15-3:30. I was tired but not exhausted. I was relieved to know I had a concrete shelter to camp in to protect me from the winds. I actually contemplated descending the first part of the Kalihi Saddle due to potential showers the next day, but decided not to. At this point I told myself I don't care how fast I finish this summit traverse; I'm here now, i know what lays ahead and how to deal with it. I just want to finish. The sunset was absolutely incredible and I thoroughly enjoyed every minute of it. I passed out around 9pm but was woken up around 10:30 as people were starting to ascend the stairs and camp on the summit to enjoy the sunrise.
South Haiku to K2: mileage ?
I don't know the mileage but I can tell you exactly the amount of years this section will take off your life expectancy due to your nerves being tested..... :)
It's not the safest section, nor does it necessarily have to be as life or death as everyone makes it out to be. I feel comfortable enough now having solo traversed this section 3 times to say that there is a safe manner that it can be completed. This part of the KST demands your full attention to every detail and your respect. Everything is crumbly and eroding right in front of your eyes. It took everything I had to quiet my mind and follow my heart of the decision to continue on to bowman when I realized the summit was once again socked in and wet. I told myself today was going to have to be the biggest day of my life. This was it, leave everything on the ridge. When you walk away today, no matter what the outcome is, there is no shame in error on the side of caution. I reached the eroded dike and it was dry. The clouds were once again parting and I felt like the weather and elements, while they appeared to be toying with my sanity were ultimately on my side. I powered through Kalihi in 3.5 hours and was ecstatic to the summit of Lanihuli. I don't know why this time was so much faster, maybe because I didn't injure myself this time. It may also have had something to do with the fact that I was now familiar with the terrain and what to expect.
Summited Lanihuli around 1130 or so and made my way down to the Puka. I called friends and let everyone know I was safely at the Pali Lookout. It was around 2pm and I knew I would be able to summit to K1 by the end of the day. I'm not going to lie, I was physically, mentally and emotionally exhausted. I climbed the chimney and made my way to that eroded contour that I hate so much. I made it past the contour and continued on.
K2 to Makapuu:
Don't know but it feels like an eternity as the expectation of that lighthouse lingers in your mind. I'm going to fast forward through this day to all the highlights. I met and ran into several hikers who were doing new years day hikes. It was a warm welcome from the solitude that I had previously spent along most of my journey. I stopped to chat with everyone of them as I was trying to ease my mind from the stress of just trying to touch the finish line. Some other highlights were running out of liquid just past Mariners Ridge, a guy in passing asking me where I had just came from, and seeing my friends at the Makapuu Lighthouse trail head. To make it official somewhere around 530pm that evening I swung my body around the fence at the light house and slapped the lighthouse wall. The overwhelming feelings of joy, accomplishment of my journey, and the weight and pressure of finishing this incredible hike I started back in May began to lift off my shoulders. Flashbacks of every failed attempt, every broken bone, every sprained knee and ankle, the bee stings, and the miles walked with those injuries. All the sensations of pain and defeat were dripping away as the tears of joy feel from my eyes. I don't know if anyone that days who was walking past me knew or even cared what just happened. I didn't really care to tell you the truth.
I wasn't the first and I wasn't changing history, or doing anything that had never been done. I didn't become a expert hiker, a role model, a badass hiker. It didn't make me more famous, or better than anyone else who ventures up into those mountains. I didn't become a hiking celebrity or authority. THere's no fame or glory that come from wandering those mountains for multiple days. You may however find yourself up there somewhere. You may witness some of the most beautiful sunrises and sunsets you will see anywhere in the world. You may find peace, serenity, and pure bliss. You'll have to silence a lot of inner thoughts and fears about venturing into the unknown. There's no rules or right way to complete the KSR: Solo, in groups, day hikes, multi day hikes, combination of both, self contained or assisted. It's just a long journey. It's not something that you should do to prove your worth as a member of the outdoor community. You should do it for yourself and whoever else you invite along your journey. =)
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